how to sew rolled hem

Daniel Parker

3 min read

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12-01-2025

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The rolled hem, a delicate and nearly invisible finish, is perfect for sheer fabrics, lightweight materials, and projects where a clean, understated edge is desired. This guide will walk you through how to sew a rolled hem by hand and with a sewing machine, providing tips and tricks for a professional finish.

Why Choose a Rolled Hem?

A rolled hem is ideal when you want a narrow, inconspicuous hem. Unlike other hemming techniques, it doesn't add significant bulk. This makes it perfect for:

• Sheer fabrics: Lace, chiffon, organza, and other delicate materials.
• Lightweight materials: Silk, voile, and batiste.
• Projects needing a refined finish: Handkerchiefs, lingerie, and fine garments.

Supplies You'll Need

Regardless of your chosen method (hand-sewing or machine sewing), you'll need these basic supplies:

• Fabric: The type of fabric will influence your chosen method (see below).
• Sharp scissors: For precise cuts. Pinking shears can help prevent fraying, especially on loosely woven fabrics.
• Seam ripper: For any mistakes.
• Pins: To hold the fabric in place.
• Needle: Choose a needle appropriate for your fabric type (e.g., a fine needle for silk).
• Thread: Matching thread is best. Use a high-quality thread for durability.
• Iron and ironing board: For crisp, clean folds.

Method 1: Hand-Sewing a Rolled Hem

Hand-sewing a rolled hem offers the most control, particularly for delicate fabrics.

Step 1: Prepare the Fabric Edge

Carefully trim any raw edges with sharp scissors. For particularly prone-to-fraying fabrics, consider using pinking shears.

Step 2: Roll the Edge

Using your finger or a small tool (like a crochet hook or rolled-hem foot if you have one), carefully roll the raw edge of the fabric inwards, creating a tiny rolled edge. The roll should be consistent and even.

Step 3: Secure the Roll

Pin the rolled edge in place every inch or so to keep it secure while you sew.

Step 4: Stitch the Roll

Using a small, even stitch (like a slip stitch or a blind stitch), sew the rolled edge to itself. Keep your stitches tiny and consistent for an almost invisible finish. Work slowly and carefully.

Method 2: Machine Sewing a Rolled Hem

Machine sewing a rolled hem is faster but requires a special sewing machine foot – a rolled-hem foot. Not all machines have this feature, but if yours does, it makes the process considerably easier.

Step 1: Prepare the Fabric Edge

As with hand sewing, trim the edge and use pinking shears if necessary.

Step 2: Attach the Rolled-Hem Foot

Consult your sewing machine manual to correctly attach the rolled-hem foot.

Step 3: Roll and Sew

Guide the fabric under the rolled-hem foot. The foot will automatically roll and stitch the edge. Adjust the tension on your machine as needed for a neat result. The exact process might vary depending on your sewing machine model.

Tips for Success

• Practice: Before tackling a major project, practice on a scrap of the same fabric to get the hang of it.
• Consistency: A consistent roll and even stitching are key to a professional-looking rolled hem.
• Pressing: Press the finished hem gently to create a crisp finish.
• Fabric choice: Heavier fabrics may be difficult to roll, making hand-sewing a better choice.
• Needle and thread: Choose the correct needle and thread for your fabric to avoid breakage and ensure even stitches.

Troubleshooting

• Uneven roll: Practice rolling the fabric tightly and evenly.
• Stitches showing: Use a finer needle and thread, and stitch more carefully.
• Fabric puckering: Adjust the tension on your machine (if using one).

Mastering the rolled hem takes a bit of practice, but the elegant finish is well worth the effort. Whether you choose hand-sewing or machine sewing, follow these steps, and you'll be creating beautifully finished projects in no time!